Croatia & Zagreb! Land of Giants & Day 16!

Croatia is populated by very tall people!  I’ve consistently seen taller than average men and women as I’ve walked around town. And many of the women are dressed to kill….leather pants, dress shoes, hair coiffed, coordinated totally, and this is to go to the market to buy tomatoes!  

I know I look like a tourist…sneakers, comfortable clothes, visor, camera in hand, backpack.  On a street corner, someone did ask Robyn directions today.   We can say thank you, you are welcome, good morning, good afternoon and maybe good evening.  Tough to carry on a conversation…or give directions!

I finally slept well last night with the help of earplugs and my mouth guard.  I guess as we age we travel with appliances.  Many in our group wear hearing aids, and the rest of us probably need them!

I’m amazed by several women with us using canes and how well they get around.  I don’t hear complaining or requests to slow down or concessions like elevators.  They are real troopers, and I hope I have as good an attitude as they do when I need a little extra help.

Sautéed mushrooms with my eggs this morning and black currant juice along with a cappuccino.  Spoiled?

We had the first chance to send our laundry out today!  I’ve been washing everything in the bathroom sink and shower, but so nice to fill a bag, and it will come back clean and folded tonight!

I had forgotten to mention Damir treating us to little surprises on the bus.  It might be Croatian chocolate or licorice candy from Bosnia or even pear brandy.  He has planned special treats for us along the way to more fully experience the different regions of the Balkans.  Again, spoiled?

Damir’s hometown is Zagreb so he has been telling us about the best sandwich and ice cream shops, best restaurants and bars, best book stores.  2020 was an extremely difficult year for this region with the COVID pandemic closing borders, and then a major earthquake.  Damir said he left NYC on March 12, 2020 on one of the last flights from the US to Europe.  All the Balkans tours were cancelled which meant he no longer had a job, and then the earthquake on March 22nd damaged his apartment and he didn’t have a home.  In ten days time, his life turned upside down.

Zagreb, as I mentioned earlier, is an old European city.  It feels much more like Paris or somewhere in Italy than the Balkan regions we have previously visited.  A series of eight linked squares frame the structure of the city and many include parks, 

and fountains, 

  

and gazebos.

As we walk through one park, statues of famous Croatians are jauntily adorned with neckerchiefs to celebrate La Cravet Week.

A hollow tree trunk is known as the place to steal a kiss!

Beautiful architecture abounds, but an earthquake in March, 2020 caused serious damage to multiple pre-WWII structures.   Most of the downtown museums are still closed and being renovated.  Cracks and missing mortar can be seen on the buildings.

  

The main square with a large monument is a meeting place for locals and tourists.  Damir says if you are polite, you will meet under the tail.  Locals, however, meet under the balls!

  

In 2018 when Croatia won silver in the World Cup soccer finals, 100,000 people gathered on this square to celebrate together.  The team, returning from the tournament, was arriving from the airport which should have taken 20 minutes.  It took seven hours due to all the traffic congestion!  The fans didn’t care and waited and cheered for their national team when they finally arrived.

The Cathedral of St. Stephen is closed due to the earthquake, but the twin spires are still impressive.  

  

A tunnel was built in Zagreb and used as a bomb shelter in WWII and during the Balkan or Homeland War in the 1990’s.  Zagreb did not suffer much damage from this later conflict, but our guide said several times he found himself in this shelter when planes were spotted nearby.  The tunnel holds 10,000 people!

  

Both Damir and our tour guide complained about the graffiti on buildings and walls.  There are not gangs in Zagreb, but buildings are spray painted with slogans or unreadable drawings.  However, artwork can be tasteful and beautiful.

A short funicular ride…a very short ride…because it is the shortest one in Europe brings us to the upper part of Zagreb.  

  

It’s a great spot to see the skyline!

  

An ancient tower is standing and in the top window is a cannon which ceremoniously fires at noon everyday.  Even when you are prepared, it is loud and shocking!

  

There are over 200 gas lights still present on buildings which a lamplighter lights each evening at dusk and extinguishes each dawn.  I would love to see this!

  

I didn’t ask how he gets around.  I hope it’s not on a scooter!

The Museum of Broken Relationships was founded in 2003 when two artists ended a four year relationship, remained friends, and joked they should start a museum with all the items they had collected over the years together.  They encouraged friends to contribute items from failed romances and the collection began.

In 2006, the collection became public with brief descriptions for each display.  In 2011, it was voted Europe’s Most Innovative Museum.  The displays rotate, and the collection has toured around the world with contributors adding new personal mementos and stories.

Some stories of personal failed relationships are funny such as voodoo dolls made out of past lovers’ clothes…

some are poignant and sad such as the mother who lost a son and people wrote messages on her door while others are relatable such as a woman no longer able to wear her lacy bras due to a mastectomy.

There were strange ones like the person who saved her boyfriend’s scab from a motorcycle accident because she was afraid of losing him and then did in a break-up…

and some make you think, or laugh…a break-up with pizza because they discovered a gluten intolerance…

or cry for the woman’s husband’s ashes in a film canister which she traveled the world sprinkling.

Robyn and I meet for lunch…recommended by Damir…and then Millennium again for me as we walk the other leg of the Zagreb “U”.  Because she loves and collects owls, Robyn spots her new favorite building!

  

Rain tonight prevents a tour of Zagreb’s cemetery, but a drink at the bar seems like a good idea before dinner!  GJ needs energy…or maybe spirits…to keep on Traveling!