Albania! Day 2 and Exploration!

I was expecting an “European continental breakfast” this morning, but instead I was delighted and surprised to see a huge spread of food beautifully displayed.  I started with grilled eggplant, Albanian doughnuts…about the size of a walnut and tasting like a pancake, then fresh cucumbers and tomatoes.  I don’t even like tomatoes, but these were delicious!

Multiple pasties were arranged on a separate table including cakes and crepes with Nutella.  My favorites were a flaky croissant and an egg custard.  Apple juice was lime green in its pitcher and didn’t taste like the apple juice I’m familiar with.  Not bad…just different.

I watched what others ate and it was an assortment…yogurt, cereal, eggs, toast, meats and cheeses.  I decided a little protein would be good so I finished breakfast with slices of salami, cheese and ham.  I felt very European!

Robyn and I met our Albanian guide, Dennis… 28 years old and a real cutie! After we checked into the  Oxford Hotel, our home for the next 3 nights, I attempted to unpack and get organized.  I swear I am going to learn to pack light, but I fail every time.  Robyn says I have back-ups to my back-ups.  She’s right!  When I’m home packing, I always think I might just need this or another pair of that.  

We headed to The House of Leaves which was built as an obstetrics hospital in the 1930’s. During WWII when Albania was controlled by fascist Italy and then Germany, it housed the Gestapo.  In 1944 as Albania became a communist country, this building which had once echoed with the happy cries of newborn infants became the nerve center of surveillance, interrogation, and torture.

The House of Leaves is now a museum filled with spy equipment, stories, propaganda, and testimony of its dark past.  The only mention of torture was a painting on one wall illustrating different techniques used against suspected enemies of the state.  

19,000 people died here and 50,000+ were “guests”.  

A bomb shelter was located outside the building…huge thick concrete doors and a long hallway with one room and a toilet…ie:  hole in the ground.

We walked across Skanderbeg Square, a huge outdoor marble floored area, where a statue of the square’s namesake commemorates the individual who overthrew the Turkish sultan and created an independent Albania in the 15th century.

An interesting fact is that Albania had an independent election after WWI and elected its first president.  Unfortunately, this man changed the constitution and declared himself king for life!  That is until Italy invaded in 1939 and then Germany.

Those of you history buffs may remember that after George Washington was elected president some people wanted to declare him king!  There was a big debate on what to call him….His Excellency, was one.  George said “No” to being crowned king and said to call him simply “Mr. President.”  Good ole George!

There are numerous feral cats in the alleyways and even in the outdoor cafes.  I wonder if Robyn is going to kidnap one in her luggage for the return trip!  Or maybe I should bring a couple back for my grandchildren!

The music playing in the hotel lobbies and restaurants is interesting.  I thought it was Greek and Robyn thought Turkish or maybe Arabic.  We asked Dennis, and he said it’s American music!  Robyn and I said we had never heard music like this before…no instruments but electronic.  Not a fan!

The local farmers market was a bright array of fruits, veggies, olives, nuts, gifts and trinkets.  We visited in mid-afternoon when many of the vendors were gone for the day. 

After a long day walking, it felt good to stop for lunch/dinner at The Home, a local produce bistro,,, with delicious fried bread served with fresh butter and quince jam.  

My pork with honey was okay and Robyn ate risotto with lamb and yogurt, but they took good pics!

V

And, Robyn got a Coke.  Unfortunately for Albania…and me!…they haven’t heard of Diet Mt. Dew yet!

There were some interesting stick sculptures by the market.  My favorite was the stork on the light pole!

Later, we walked back through the castle area and saw a familiar American sight.  Everyone loves John Wayne!

Our hotel on a small alley is delightful…comfortable bed and a great hot shower with an outside patio to sit and visit, enjoy some Italian coffee from the cafe, or to write!  My only problem at both hotels have been the sheets or rather the bedspread.  There is no top sheet and the bedspread is similar to a heavy sheet simply laid on the bed untucked at the bottom.  I like some weight on top and this “sheet/spread” and I continue to wrestle.  

Day 2 of Travels with GJ ends with me writing and Robyn hoping to sleep.