Day 11 & Where is Herzegovina?

My view at breakfast this morning tempted me to stay…

or maybe it was the idea of another chocolate croissant…

or maybe it’s the lounge chairs in the lobby…

or on the patio…

or maybe the cats waiting patiently at the door!

Thankfully my luggage hasn’t grown too much in 10 days so we pack up, board the bus, and get ready for class!  I realized I had lots of information about Montenegro I forgot to share, but maybe another day.  

If you look at a map, Croatia, shaped like a boomerang…or maybe a croissant-Yum!, is divided into two parts…the Dubrovnik “Riviera” and the Dalmatian coast which includes Split.  How did a 25 mile strip of land become part of Bosnia dividing Croatia in half?

Centuries ago the Turks wanted to conquer the Austro-Hungarian empire especially Venice.  They were not interested in the coast of the Balkans.  The Venetians, on the other hand, were very interested in the Adriatic coastline.  In 1799, Dubrovnik offered the Ottoman Turks a narrow strip of land to protect them from the Venetians.

This division resulted in you having to past through Bosnian border control to reach the majority of Croatia which wasted time especially during the busy summer season.  In 2022, a new 1500’ bridge opened which connects both parts of Croatia.  

  

Often we see dozens if not hundreds of buoys in the water.  They are mussel farm pots.  When the buoy sinks half under water, it is time to harvest the mussels.

We stop for a “smile” break, and a tree in the parking lot has such lovely pine cones.  Wouldn’t these make great Christmas decorations?

  

I take notes as Damir talks but whether it’s a bumpy bus leading to almost illegible handwriting, a long break in my education, distraction, all of the above…sometimes my notes make no sense!  Apologies for any and all historical mistakes I make!

There are three ethnic and three religious groups in the region…55% Bosnian Muslims, 30% Orthodox Serbs, and 15% Catholic Croatians.  Most of the Catholic Croatians live in the small area near Croatia called Herzegovina coming from the name meaning “ruler”.  

In the 15th century, the Turks didn’t enforce Islam when they invaded.  However, they gave land and offered lower taxes to Muslim citizens.  Since it was cheaper to be Muslim, many people converted.

The country of Yugoslavia was formed after WWI combining the southern Slavic countries of Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Serbia, Montenegro, and Macedonia.  After WWII, Marshall Titi became dictator and Yugoslavia experienced a period of prosperity.  The most prosperous countries of Slovenia and Croatia were expected to help the others; although, they wanted more control over their monies and how they were spent.

In 1974, Tito gave Yugoslavia a new constitution where every republic had the right to organize a referendum whether to stay or leave the federation and declare independence.  Tito thought this would never happen, and during his lifetime, he jailed or killed anyone opposed to his continued rule.  

In 1980 when Tito died, he had not named a successor.  People knew Yugoslavia would be difficult to survive without his firm control.  The new leadership which was a rotating series of presidents every six months…1 Bosnian Muslim, 1 Croatian Catholic, and 1 Orthodox Serb…was hugely ineffective.

Slovenia passed a referendum first and then Croatian in 1991 for independence.  At this time, Milosevic, with the fifth largest army in Europe, was in control of Yugoslavia.  He said that if even “one tomb” was in a region that it was part of Yugoslavia.

By controlling all the media and other communications, Milosevic blamed Slovenia and Croatia as selfish, hating Serbians, wanting to expel them, and destroying Yugoslavia.  These tensions lead to The Balkans War starting in 1991.

Finally, in 1995 under US President Bill Clinton, an agreement to end the war was finalized in Dayton, Ohio and signed in Paris.  The former countries of Yugoslavia eventually divided into seven countries…Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Serbia, North Macedonia, Montenegro, and Kosovo.  

Confused?  Brain overload?  Then you know how I feel!  But let me continue…

Yugoslavia produced lots of electricity selling 60% to its neighbors.  Today, production is only 60-65% of what it was before the war.  Bosnia and Herzegovina have a lack of highways, and governmental corruption is rampart since the three presidental system continues and decisions must be unanimous.  40% unemployment, not being part of the EU…European Union, and brain-drain of resources have made it one of the poorest countries in Europe.  

The Dayton Agreement divided Bosnia & Herzegovina into two entities…N & E Serbia and Herzegovina would be Serpska with 90% Orthodox Serbs, and S, Central, and W Serbia would be Federation of Bosnia & Herzegovina with Muslims and Catholics.

Elections are held, but each citizen must answer: 1) What is your ethnic background…Bosnian Serb, Croatian, or Other?  You can only vote for the person representing your ethnicity!  “Others” cannot vote for Bosnians, Serbs, nor Croatians.  

It’s a complicated mess! And, I may have butchered history and lead to further fracturing of the region with my explanations!  Sorry!

During Tito’s reign, the Yugo car was developed, exported, and highly profitable for Yugoslavia.  

What do you call a Yugo on a mountain?  A miracle!

What do you call two Yugos on a mountain?  A mirage!

I think we stop in Mostar for a brain rest as much as sightseeing, shopping at the local markets, and lunch.  We were forwarded to wear sturdy shoes due to the cobblestoned streets.

  

There is a lovely bridge which was destroyed in 1993 during the war. but rebuilt with UNESCO help.  This arch is typical of Ottoman design and construction.

 

I haven’t seen coin-operated childrens’ rides in a while.  My dad use to take Bryan and a pocketful of change to ride similar ones at a store in Williamsburg.

Sarajevo is known for two things…the assassination of Arch-Duke Ferdinand and his wife, Princess Sophia of Austria, leading to the outbreak of WWI and the 1984 Winter Olympics.

As we head to our hotel for three nights, there is a mixture of design and cultures.  There is modern construction and high-rises amidst communist concrete beige-gray boxes referred to as “Tito Brutalism” alongside graffiti sprayed former buildings now shells from the war, buildings with bullet holes and bomb damage as reminder of the war and ancient buildings still standing.  

It’s a strange juxtaposition and Travels with GJ will be exploring and trying to absorb it all!